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热刺球员名单2014: 今天談論意大利美食,一定要提到這個小鎮

热刺贝尔 www.gyplwd.com.cn Naomi Tomky 2019年10月01日

這座鎮子希望歡迎所有人來參加它的盛宴。

摩德納的默卡托·阿爾比內利(Mercato Albinelli)是鎮上的烹飪中心。圖片來源:Tagini PH

摩德納的美食聲名遠播,遠遠超越了這座擁有18.5萬居民的小鎮。它是馬西莫·博圖拉的Osteria Francescana餐廳的所在地(這家餐廳經常名列全球最佳餐廳榜單),它手工制作的意大利面在奈飛(Netflix)電視劇《無為大師》(Master of None)第二季中占有重要位置。鎮上還有一家比美國歷史還悠久的熟食店,出售的熟食和奶酪是本地艾米莉亞-羅馬涅大區的飲食珍寶。

在市中心的默卡托·阿爾比內利(Mercato Albinelli),你可以看到當地的烹飪傳統得到了最充分的展示。游客們可以在這的彩虹走廊漫步,那有不同品種的櫻桃染著深淺不一的紅色,有做nocino核桃酒的綠核桃,還有圓圓胖胖的紫茄子。

大約一千年來,摩德納的市集一直都自發地聚集在附近的格蘭德廣場(Piazza Grande)上。但在1931年,它搬到了現在的地址,在這座鑄鐵外墻的新藝術派建筑內,原本非正式的戶外市場安置了一個永久正式又令人驚嘆的家——這個新家旨在提升城市的現代化水平,提高食品行業的安全和衛生。這座全國歷史地標仍然是鎮子的烹飪中心,同時也如同畫廊一般展示著充滿美感的水果、蔬菜、面包、肉類和形狀顏色大小各異的意大利面,吸引著游客的到來。

Modena’s food reputation looms far larger than the town of 185,000 residents. It’s home to Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana (often listed as among the best restaurants in the world), its handmade pastas featuring prominently in the second season of Netflix’s Master of None. And there is a deli older than America serving up the prized charcuterie and cheeses of parent region Emilia-Romagna.

Nowhere is that culinary tradition more on display than at the Mercato Albinelli in the center of town, where visitors can wander its rainbow aisles, brimming with varieties of cherries in every shade of red, green walnuts for nocino, and bulbous purple eggplants.

For almost a millennium, Modena’s market was an informal collection of sellers on the nearby Piazza Grande. But in 1931 it moved inside the wrought iron facade of the current Art Nouveau building, giving the casual outdoor market a permanent, formal, and stunning home—one designed to modernize the city as well as improve the safety and hygiene of the food industry. The national historic landmark still serves as the city’s culinary heart while also drawing tourists with its gallery-worthy displays of fruit, vegetables, bread, meat, and pasta in every shape, color, and size.

意大利摩德納默卡托·阿爾比內利內部。圖片來源:Courtesy of Tagini PH

這里也展示著真正的藝術:市場中心矗立著一個提著水果籃子的小女孩雕像,這座雕塑由摩德納著名的雕塑家朱塞佩·格拉齊奧西制作。但它可不僅僅是美麗的展示品。雕像的頂部有一個噴泉,可以提供干凈的直飲水,室內市場在履行它改善城市生活的使命,這座噴泉是其中微小卻重要的一部分。對于那些家里沒有干凈水源的人而言,這座噴泉就像一個衛生站,有供他們清洗商品的淡水。這是個很小的舉動,但卻能夠表明,這座鎮子希望歡迎所有人來參加它的盛宴,大飽眼福,大快朵頤。

縱觀整個市場,這種兼具功能性與美學的特點隨處可見,賣魚的攤位上用大塊粉紅大理石板雕刻的桌子是個突出例子。這種大理石可以把冰塊隔開,讓魚保持低溫,也方便在每天收攤的時候擦洗干凈。魚販們把冰塊鋪在巨大的維羅納大理石板上,再擺上巨大的章魚、剛剝了殼的扇貝和半透明的橙蝦,展示給往來的客人。玻璃罩后面是海鱸魚、魷魚、蛤蜊、鯖魚和貽貝,它們放在干凈的冰塊上,由大理石保持低溫。

There is also actual art displayed here: At the center of the market stands a statue of a young girl holding a fruit basket, made by Modena’s famous sculptor Giuseppe Graziosi. But the statue is more than just a thing of beauty. It tops a fountain that runs with clean, potable water, a small but important part of the indoor market’s mission to improve city life. For those without clean water at home, this fountain's fresh water provided a sanitary station at which they can wash their produce. It’s a small gesture, but one that shows that the town wants to welcome all comers to its feast for both the eyes and the stomach.

Throughout the market, this sort of dual purpose of functional beauty stands out, notably at the giant slabs of pink marble carved into tables that serve as fish counters. The stone insulates the ice to keep the fish cold and wipes clean at the end of every day. Atop the great slabs of Verona marble, the fishmongers spill their ice and stack their display with enormous octopuses, freshly shucked scallops, and translucent orange shrimp. Branzino, squid, clams, mackerel, and mussels sit behind glass shields atop the clean ice, kept cold by the marble.

默卡托·阿爾比內利制作的新鮮意大利餃子。圖片來源:Courtesy of Tagini PH

市場上有65個攤位,包括一家著名的三明治店(Bar Schiavoni)。外面一圈是肉鋪,其中一家專門賣馬肉。如果你抬頭沿著白瓷磚墻面往上看,從掛肉鉤的金屬欄桿上方再往上,在每個肉鋪頂上的角落里,你會看到市場設計中的另外一個巧思:一個小洞。原來,那個洞是一個秘密通道,讓每家店鋪都能快速方便地進入衛生冷庫,而無需占用攤位的空間。

There are 65 stalls around the market, including a famous sandwich spot (Bar Schiavoni). Along the outside sit the butcher shops—one of which is specifically for horse meat. And if you look up the white tiled walls, above the metal rail of hooks for hanging meat and up into the upper corner of each butcher shop, you see another of the ingenious designs of the market: a tiny hole. That hole, it turns out, is a secret passage, allowing each of the shops to quickly and conveniently access their sanitary cold storage, without it taking up space in the small stalls.

默卡托·阿爾比內利的肉攤上,整齊地掛著意大利熏火腿和其他肉制品。圖片來源:Courtesy of Tagini PH

市場除星期天外,每天都開放,甚至在周五和周六晚上還營業,在65個攤位上,當地特色食物應有盡有:不同年份的帕瑪森干酪,本地香醋(與美國生產的糖精仿制品毫無關系),當然少不了fatta a mano面團,這種面團可以手工做出當地著名的意大利餃子(以及長圓餃、餛燉、小方餃、團子等)。熟食店得意地展示著意大利熏火腿,這是當地最著名的特產,但也掛著一架子又一架子的煙肉、干脖肉、煙熏豬里脊、肉腸和六種不同的薩拉米香腸。

最后,一個盛著餡餅的糕點盒里仿佛裝了個紅綠燈:綠色的甜香草派、亮黃色的檸檬塔還有香脆杏仁撻(sbrisolona)——這種甜品是在傳統杏仁蛋糕的基礎上加入了能多益(Nutella)巧克力醬和摩德納本地的櫻桃果醬。(財富中文網)

譯者:Agatha

The market is open every day except Sunday and even has evening hours on Fridays and Saturdays, with 65 stalls serving everything from the traditional specialties of the region: various ages of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, locally aged balsamic vinegar (which has little to do with the saccharine imitations found in the United States), and of course, the pasta fatta a mano, made by hand into the region’s famous tortellini (as well as tortelli, tortelloni, ravioli, gnocchi.) Charcuterie shops show off prosciutto—the region’s best-known specialty—but there’s also shelf after shelf of pancetta, coppa, lonzino, speck, and a half-dozen types of salami.

And finally, a pastry case holds a stoplight of tarts: a green sweet herb pie, bright yellow lemon, and a crunchy sbrisolona, a traditional almond cake upgraded with Nutella and tart cherry jam made in Modena.

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